Jumela Dade

The past 4 days have been spent in an isolated town near the Lesotho boarder. When we booked the night, we didn't realize that Sani Lodge was in the middle of nowhere, that we would arrive without cash or groceries and that there was no easy way to get either of these things. No internet (which is why i am playing catch up) no transportation, and no heating. At the abse of the mountains at the start of winter, it was cold!

The highlight of the week, and possibly the trip, was the overnight cultural trip that we signed up for that would take us into the nmountain kingdom of Lesotho (pronounced, Le sue too). We would be accompanied by 2 Dutch girls who deserve mention, Inga and MJ, and our guide, Matthew. We became acquainted the night before by playing silly card games and we all got along wonderfully!

To get to Lesotho you must pass through the Drakensberg mountains, which are impressive rocky shelves that overlook the flatlands of Zululand. 75 % of the country is mountains and the enviornment is made harsh by the altitude and cold.

The people of Lesotho live very traditional lives. They farm corn and wheat, raise cattle and goats, and live in round huts made of mud and cow dung. But despite the harsh envioronment, the people are very warm and lovely. Calling out "Jumela Dade" (hello father, a sign of respect) to the men, or "Jumela me" to the women, always earns a bright smile and a wave along with a jumble of words I cannot understand. OUr host greets us at his home with a bright smile. His short arms extend to greet us with the 3 part handshake that symbolizes peace, rain and prosperity; the staple of Lesotho life.

He quickly welcomes us inside his home for warmth of a fire that is fueled by cow dung. The hut is smokey and i can hardly breathe but he is very proud to have us.

At night we explore the village played with teh kids, and then were treated to singing and dancing by the women. They all sing and dance wildly. Their voices aren't perfect but it still soudns nice because of the way that they belt it out. Their dancing is VERY impressive. Shoulders move in ways I can't explain. And their butts shake in ways that neither Nathan nor myself could master, although we would try several time, much to the delight of the women of the village. The songs are very personal chants about the village, prayers for rain and homage tot he ancestors.

I should mention that none of this seems touristy. Tourism is new to Lesotho so the people are not very acustomed to people coming into their village and watching them. But it is equally uncomfortable at first as it is unbelievably interesting. Soon, everyone lightens up and we are able to really experience their way of life.

At night we drink locally brewed bear and play a few games with one of our hosts. He is very anxious to show us his marijuana plant, whcih he is very proud of. The next morning I visit a traditional healer. She tells me that I get head aches sometime and sometimes my stomache is upset. She is right! I ask ehr what my ancestors think of me and if they are proud. She tells me that they are laughing and that they are glad that I asked. They always watch over me and will keep me safe throughout my trip. Although I don't believe, it is strangley comforting. I pay her 25 cents.

Time is up. To be continued...