Lake Turkana Day Two - The Volcano field of Mt. Kulal

We woke up before sunrise and debated whether we had enough petrol or not. We had a full tank and 60 spare liters in containers in the back of our SUV. Since we still had about 700 kilometers before we would be able to fuel up, we weren't sure if it would be enough. We went to the petrol station to see what they thought and they let us know that we had a flat tire. Sure enough, the back right tire was very low and needed repair. So much for leaving before sunrise. It was a bit of a blessing in disguise.

2 hours and 3 dollars later we had a repaired tire when a guy asked us where we were going. After the killings the night before, I didn't want to tell complete strangers our whereabouts so I said to Nairobi. He said, "too bad you weren't going to Lake Turkana cause there are 2 French rastas that need a ride." We said, "Sweet, we will go that direction then!"

These two French Rastas (one guy had dreadlocks) came walking over and sure enough, we headed our direction. They could offer about 15 dollars a piece for the full day drive. We would enjoy the company so 15 dollars would be enough. Plus, extra people means more safety.

The day was great. No further problems. The landscape slowly became more and more desolate. The entire day we would see about 6 vehicles. We passed through a huge valley that stretched for as far as the eyes could see. It reminded me of south park Colorado. In the valley we saw wild ostrich, which, along with the camels we would see later was really funny and interesting to me. Wild ostrich? No way!

Further and further and it became more desert. One of the highlight of the trip was the feeling you get when you are hundreds of miles from the nearest town or village and you come across a Samburu, dressed in red paint, shukas, a spear, a mohawk, countless beads and decorations, just walking his ground. It is so strange and wonderful to see these people, completely different than anything you can imagine. I am told that young Samburu boys will go out and tend camels or sheep, alone in the desert, for weeks at a time. I can only imagine how lonely it must be.

We came to a small town, the last one before our night stop in Liongolani, and to our surprise there were old women waiting by the road with jewelry. Only 4 or 5 cars per week could pass through this remote village and yet these old women would wait by to sell things.

After this village it would be 100 k's and 4 hours before we arrived. The landscape became Martian as volcanic boulders the size of bowling balls began to liter the fields. The road was covered in sharp volcanic stones and it was a bit worrisome to drive through the hot desert thinking about a puncture. Finally, we got our first glimpse of the lake. It was beautiful. They call it the Jade sea but at this moment it was blue surrounded by a giant desert. Old volcanoes formed perfect cylinder around the lake.

We climbed slowly down the volcano field toward the lake. There wasn't a single tree anywhere in sight. As we got lakeside we saw a few Turkana people (they look similar to Samburus) pulling in nets and doing their daily things. The women go topless, and cover themselves in red paint. Some started running after the car asking for food or money. It was very sad. I have no idea how anyone can survive out here in the desert. There is very little to sustain them. We would later learn that the staple foods are camel milk and camel blood.

We gave 2 Turkanas a ride into town, about 10 k's. One, a woman that was topless. I have a great photo of our French guys in the back seat with this topless Turkana woman. She didn't speak any English except "give me money." I gave each of them a piece of bread which they devoured. The girl left paint on the back seat of our car. They both smelled horrible.

We arrived in the tiny town of Liongolani, a small village surrounded by palm trees. It was a tiny oasis in the desert. We would stay for the night but not until buying petrol at double price that it was in Maralal. Lesson learned, never cut it close with petrol. We would part with the Fenchies and thh next day would be all alone in the most literal sense.