American, Like Jean Claude Van Damme

Lonely Planet (the travel guide) writes that you should not be surprised if a local Zambian invites you over for dinner or if complete strangers go out of their way to welcome you.

We arrived in Lusaka after a hellish time in Zimbabwe hoping to find just that hospitality. To celebrate Nathan's belated birthday, we walked around for 2 hours trying to find a restauraunt that served some nice food and a tall glass of beer. After two hours we found nothing except for a place call "L.A. Takeaways." This place served burgers and fries, pizzas, and a beef stick. Since it had been enarly 24 hours since our previous meal (which was a bread roll with peanut butter), we gave in and had dinner at L.A. takeaways. Nathan had the beef stick. (Air Force guys, feel free to make jokes). It wasn't the nicest birthday dinner he had ever had but it was fine enough. We went to the hostel, blogged, and then had a few beers at the local bar while talking with a rather interesting guy (half Malawian half British) and a beautiful model (Zambian). It was a great night that ended at about 9 PM.

The next morning I phoned a guy named Topsy who i had met through couchsurfing. He agreed to host us for a few nights and also escort us around town. So far, it has been the most unique experience of the trip.

First off, Topsy took us to the markets, a place that wasn't even on the tourist map that the hostel gave us. The markets are divided into a first class, 2nd class and third class market, all side by side. In the markets people trade and do business, everything from tomatoes and maize to blacksmiths, beer, etc. For the next 20 hours, we would not see another white person. What's more, people were excited to see us and would give us the thumbs up. some came to shake our hand and some asked for us to take photos of them. Zambia is ngiht and day compared to South Africa. People here are more friendly than anywhere I have ever seen. If a 20 year old man says how are you to me and I respond, he is excited by it. So I have waved and said hello to about 5,000,000 people in the last day.

Topsy is a local actor and participates in a TV program here in Lusaka that is like a roundtable discussion/debate about local issues. Because of this, he has earned a sort of mini-celebrity and people will come to him and say hello. So between the three of us, we NEVER go unnoticed. One of the many highlights from the markets was going to a local recording studio and playing guitar with a local musician.

After the markets, Topsy phoned a few friends that run a minibus who would take us to Topsy's home for the night. In South Africa, you NEVER take a minibus after dark and never go in an empty minibus. So i was a bit, just a little bit, nervous when I saw this minibus roll up empty. but they were friends of Topsy and so we loaded our packs in.

We left Lusaka and entered the neighborhood. Pictures will only do it justice but lets just say this. Topsy said that the only time white people come here are when government officials escort them to do census type stuff. We arrived at his house and the drivers refused payment from us. Then we went out and explored the neighborhood. The housing in Africa is much different, of course, than the US. Some homes do not have electricity, some do not have windows, some do not have roofs. All are built side by side, no roads, and people do business from the crowded streets. A barber shop, one where nathan got a haircut today, is a closet sized room, right beside a closet sized store, and a bar.

Mzungu is the African word for White Person and almost all of the kids say it as we pass. Most want to wave. We definately get attention everywhere we go.

The most exciting thing for me is that this is an experience that no one else gets. We aren't staying in the city hotels or hostels, this is the real Africa. The real Lusaka. We played pool with the locals, making fun of us of course and taking pride in beeting a couple of mzungus.

Waliing through the markets you have to breathe lightly because the stench of fish is overwhelming. So when Topsy informed us that his family had prepared dinner for us, I immediately thought, "I hope to God it isn't fish." Sure enough, it was the staple food. Maize meal, veggies, and fish. Traditionally, Zambians eat with their hands. The maize was good, and filling, the veggies were delicious. The fish..... oh the fish. Neither my tounge nor my stomache liked the fish.

This blog could last hours if I were to explain what I have seen in Lusaka. All, or almost all, are great stories. But, this blog is only a sample. But just try to picture me and Nathan in a crowd of 1000 Zambians, walking down a market selling shoes, fish, and everything else, being called mzungus by the kids, waving to the people that can't stop staring, and big goofy smiles on our faces.

Endnote: Thanks again for the messages. However, make sure to sign your name to your comment. I have no idea who some of the people writing me are but I would really like to know. Reading comments makes me very happy! I only read Sheilas emails and my parents so if you comment, make sure you sign your name at the end.

Also, another attempt at uploading photos will take place today. So..... maybe this time?

People keep saying that I look like John Cena. Apparently he is a famous wrestler that wears shorts. Since I am the only person in Zambia that is both white and wearing shorts, I must be John Cena. people yell it out, "Hey, John Cena!" One guy said I am "American like Jean Claude Van Damme." That mmight be the best thing I've ever heard. I've also been called, Mzungu, bush, and long long man.