Mimi Ni Maasai

After a few sub par experiences leading to a few sub par blogs, allow me to pick up the tempo a little bit and fill you in on some great adventures!

To begin, the Maasai people are some of the coolest in the world. I first learned about them a few years back and thought "wow, it would be cool to get to meet them." So when I was planning this trip, I made sure to mark down Arusha, a Maasai hub, as a place to stop and experience their culture. Arusha is known mostly for being the base camp for Tanzania's Safari curcuit. The serengeti and Ngorogoro only 50 K's away, host some of the best wildlife veiwing in the world. Everybody goes to tanzania to visit one of the many parks at the doorstep of Arusha. Consequently, the prices are ridiculously high and out of the range for yours truly. It is a new goal of mine to return here one day and visit one of these famous parks.

But our trip to Arusha was all about the Maasai. We arrived late at night and stayed in a real hole in the wall place named "menjas hotel" 20 Meters away from "Menja's hotel," and "Menja's hotel." We met a guy named "biggie" who is no doubt one of the millions of scams in Arusha who sold us a cultural experience tour with the maasai. Our original plan was to go to the maasai market, talk with some maasai and offer money in exchange for letting us hang out with them for a few dyas, but we were pressed for time and so "biggie" took advantage.

We met our guide, Godfrey and to my surprise, he was not like the maasai that we saw in Dar es Salaam, dressed in red blankets (shukas) and with piercings and weapons. Instead, he was a modern "larusa" maasai. Basically a mixture of traditional culture and modern ways of life. The larusa farm and dress modernly and seem like almost every other group of people in Africa but still keep a few traditions, like the circumcicion ritual that takes place when a child is 15!

One of the things that you read about the maasai is how they fight to preserve their culture. So when our first day involved a walk through a very modern neighborhood and a very modern guide, I was a bit worried that this would not be what I hope for. Speaking with Godfrey I learned that he, and many larusa's are now Christian, thanks to the several groups of missionaries that come through preaching the gospel. Add this to the mcDonalds t-shirt he was wearing and you can see where I was disappointed. The problem I have is in the way that our guide, Godfrey, talks about the maasai culture. Their creation stories and folklore is told with a hint of shame and embarrassment. I find these stories very interesting but Godfrey almost has a bit of shame, quickly letting me know that he no longer believes these and that he is christian. For me, it seems out of place for a maasai to be christian, at least culturally. Maasai have such a different way of life, or at least the nomadic, traditional ones do. To show how the cultures clash, I saw several signs that read "Mgaga wangu ni Yesu" (Jesus is my witch doctor). It is upsetting for me to think that a culture is ashamed of their culture and religion. But that was the feeling that I got.

But let me say that Godfrey is one of the joys of our trip. He was not only a guide, but a true friend. I hope to keep in contact with him for a long time and hopefully see him again, either in Tanzania or in the US.

The next day Godfrey guided us to a crater that was very lovely but the highlight of the day and the trip was going to the maasai market, also called the colorful market because of the sea of red that you see. Maasai wear red shukas and so everything is red. Nathan and I decided that the maasai look so cool in their shukas that we had to go ahead and get some for our selves. It started with buying a sword (machete) for about 5 dollars. Then we went and got 3 shukas each (the typical amount that one wears), a belt and a stick.

Immediately, we were the hit of the market. Where before people gave us cold stares (the maasai are intimidating people), now everyone, old men and women, children, everyone, greeted us with enthusiasm. They were so happy to see that we too could dress as maasai. I told everyone "mimi ni maasai, mimi ni morani." I am a maasai, i am a warrior. And they all love it. Old women would come to us and sing for us, encouraging us to dance and also jump. Maasai men jump to see who can get the highest. For a good 5 hours, everyone came to talk to us, in some cases, followed us around. They were very pleased that we embraced their culture so.

It was truly a highlight of the trip. A much needed one after the sub par days in Zanzibar (although I am not complaining, I have nothing but fun, if not bitter sweet memories). The maasai are truly beautiful people. Despite the fact that the women make holes in their ears big enough to fit a baseball, they shave their heads, tattoo their faces, and neither the men nor the women brush their teeth, they are still beautiful. It is truly the feeling that drives you to understand that our differences are what make us beautiful. I could spend a year with the maasai, I enjoy them so much.

The following day Godfrrey took me on a hike to see the colobus monkeys. Nathan could not go because of blisters on his feet. I dressed in full maasai gear. Godfrey, like all maasai, is very tall and very thin. Probably 6'3" with a 26 inch waist. Together, we walked at a ridiculously fast pace, covering 5 miles in about1.5 hours, mind you that it is uphill, on a rough trail. When we got to the top of the hill where the colobus are, there were many maasais and the monkeys were no where to be seen. So Godfrey led me into the jungle. We would have to use my machete (how cool is that?) just to blaze a trail. Finally we saw them. They are amazing animals, monkeys that are black and white. They look like skuns only really hairy and they jump around the tops of trees. No pictures to show but it was great to get to see them.

We walked back, again to the amusement of the maasai as they saw their mzungu maasai morani. Godrfry told me that the women are "tempted" by me. It was fun!

Again, the trip is something that I will always remember. A perfect guide, a great experience and millions of great memories. It was once again sad to leave a place that we got so used to and enjoyed so much but that is the theme of our trip.

We took a bus from Arusha to Nairobi and I thought for sure I was on my death bus. The roads were the worst we've seen and the driver went 120 kph the whole way, passing trucks by going offroad which to be honest was as good as the main road). We would speed up for 40 meters and then slam on the brakes for a peed bump, over and over again. It was crazy. Once I hit my head on the roof because we hit a bump so ahrd.

We arrived and started planning for Lake Turkana, the alst great adventure of the trip, and to our surprise, were told that it would take at least 10 days round trip. since the famous scientist, Louise leakey, told me that I must be gone by the 15th, we will have to leave ASAP. So, without further announcement, Nathan and I will truly be in the bush, on the greatest adventure of our lives, beginning in just a few hours.

I am sorry that I cannot say more about it but I encourage you to research koobi fora and sibiloi national park to find out where we are going. We rented a rav4 and will be driving off road for about 1000 k's. Only a compass and a map as our guide. If you think of us in the next few days, know that we are probably somewhere in the desert taking the adventure of our young lives. Don't expect a blog for the next 10 days.

Lots of love to family and friends. I will enjoy your emails, messages and prayers.

Update

All it said was:

"Dear Adam, Unfortunately Dr. Leakey will not be available in July."

And my hopes were shattered.

Not much has happened since the last blog beyond reading, writing, and researching. I sat on the deck for the ferry ride back, right on the front of the boat, and got drenched by waves. It was nice because it was so hot outside and the water is crystal clear.

The drive up from Dar es Salaam to where we are now in Arusha was beautiful. One of the more breathtaking moments was driving along side Mt. Kilimanjaro. The mountain is very impressive. 19,000 feet basically coming up from sea level. It is VERY tall and very beautiful. It is the only mountain around so it stands out, rising from the plains.

We will be spending the next 3 days with the Maasai people, in their village. To learn mroe about these people see the link on the right.

Wake up Call

Todays blog is short and sweet.

I forgot to mention that while staying with Joshua we were awakened in the middle of the night by the Muslim church leader (pastor? preist?) who began screaming a sermon into a bullhorn. He would shout and sing songs into the ampliphier. It was too absurd to get on my nervs. It was 5 am on the dot, at least an hour before the sun came up. It was pitch black outside and this guy was just going on. Do people not thnk this is strange? Is this really allowed? Not everyone here is muslim, why don't people protest this? So many times we have experienced moments like this where you think, "what the ? are these people doing?" That is Africa.

I saw my first Masaai people. I am already convinced that they will be one of the highlights of this trip. The Maasai are a people that have preserved thir culture, continually refusing to give up their traditional lives. They stick out because of their size, they are all VERY tall (as tall as me in some cases, and sometimes taller) and extremely thin. East Africans in general are tall and thin but the maasai are even aller and thinner. They also wear red blanket type garments that they wrap around their body. They do strange things with their hair and wear strange jewelry, sometimes stretching their ears. The men often carry weapons, like clubs or spears. It is srtange to see a maasai walking in a market carrying a club. Even though there is no need for a club, they still carry it. I really can't wait to get to learn about the maasai. I even think that my story will center around the maasai in an important way.

Joshua was such a fantastic host and I am so excited that he will be going to Fort Lewis college next year. I look forward to visiting him and following his time in the US. He has such a good heart and is such a firework of energy. I can't wait to post the photos of him, you ill be able to tell how enthusiastic he is all the time. Be Free!!!! He was anxious to show us his family and after meeting his mom and I know where he gets his enthusiasm. She met us with joy and started jumping up and down, just out of pure joy of getting to meet us. It was wild.

Nathan and I took a ferry to Zanzibar, a small island off of the cast which is full of tourists. I got sick on the ferry and for a while thought I migh hurl. The island is another little paradise and tomorrow Nathan and I will rent scooters and cruise the island. So far it is a fun place but again, it is less Africa and more tourist trap. After this weekend, we will be on our final leg of the rtip. A trek through Arusha (maasai land and Mt. Kilimanjaro) and then begin our adventure for lake turkana, the highlight of the trip. In the meantime, it is sun and clear ocean, monkeys and a full moon party tomorrow night where traditional food and music will be the entertainment (and proabbly a lot of drunk tourists).

Footnote: I bought a shirt that says Mzungu (white person) on the front.

Be Free

In the olden days, when a white person remained in a British commonwealth country for longer than 4 or 5 years without visiting England, they were at risk of "going African." It was like by being in Africa for too long without returning to Europe for some frame of mind, you would become distorted and you would become Africa.

Now it is official. I have gone African.

No disrespect to the people of these beautiful countries, but I have become completely accustom to the idiosyncrosies of African culture. When a bus begins to drive off with me hanging out the side, I don't flinch. When I haven't showered for days, (and I do mean about 6 days) I dont notice. When I wear the same outfit for over a week (and I do mean, mroe than a week) it is hakuna matata. "I've gone to the motherland, and I'm coming back a brothaman." 

We arrived in Dar Es Salaam after a 26 hour train ride that took us through some beautiful Tanzanian countryside. Including, a wild game parkwhere from our window we could see giraffs, warthogs, and wildabeast. It was very cool. We met a guy named Chris who has begun an NGO in Malawi, right where we were jsut staying. The sad thing is, this guy's programm is inthe travel book that we use. You can volunteer fora day or twowith this NGO and learn a lot about Malawi. I already mentioned that Nathan and I didn'tlearn anything about Malawi but that it was a "break from our travels." The sad thing is,this Mayoka village was so much fun, it was too efficient. It has such a monoploy on the tourism in Nkhata bay that great programmslike Chris's hardly stand a chance. (That is an exageration, I ams ure Chris willbe very successful,but I continue).

In Dar es Salaam we met Joshua. Joshua and I met online... that sounded awful. I eailed Joshua a few months back and asked for some traveladvice in tanzania. He immediately began working on accomodation for us. He assured me that we would be staying with him and visitinghis church and pastor. After waiting in line for an hour after gettingoff the train (look foran upcoming blog about the innefficiencies of business here) Joshua greeted us and quickly told us "Be Free!."

Joshua has such an animated face. He cracks me up in theway he talks andhis blithe spirit. I am so glad to have met him. Be Free! Make yourself at home.

He introduced us to his pastor and other members of the church. He has such a golden heart. Today he has takenus on a tour of the city. I am completely free! Dar es Salaam would not be nearly as interesting without him!

Thanks for the comments from my friends. Dave, you message was hilarious in every way.

The toilets here are just a hole in the ground. It takes a yoga master to use it. I am learning.

Reflection

The last several posts have been very sloppy and not at all the way that I wanted this blog to go. I apologize but in my defense, internet is very slow, expensive and difficult to find. On top of that, I must find time out of a very busy travel schedule to write down thoughts, or in most cases, events that have occured on the trip. But now that I have a bit of time and a fast and cheap internet connection, I want to offer a bit of reflection.

Last night I couldn't sleep because of this knot in my stomache. I am not sure if it was because of homesickness, or missing Sheila, but my mind was racing at a rigorous speed, too fast to let me fall asleep. From the start, I wanted this trip to change me, to ignite some sort of motivation or call to action that would give me the drive to acheive something great. Both in screenwriting and more importantly, to somehow improve the lives of the people of Africa.

Going through 7 countries in 7 weeks is not the most efficient way to learn about the challenges and histories of these countries. Nonetheless, I feel that I have gained a lot. Most of my thoughts have been very discouraging. In the last 7 weeks we have run into countless people that have explained to us the hardships of their daily lives. Mind you that many of these people are very happy, very grateful and I don't want to make it seem like I pity them in any way. But there are so many stories of injustices and hardships, racism and poverty, disease and sickness.

The light that I hoped would be ignited in me, has thus far, just been a knot in my stomache. The problems are so big, they go back hundreds of years, and there is so much ambiguity surrounding what can and should be done. Spurring these mixed feeling and adding to the confusion is the biography on Che that I have been reading on this trip. Che was so motivated to begin revolution in the 3rd world countries. He sacrificed his life for the people of the Congo but ultimately was useless to them. In a way, I wish that I had this conviction, as Che did, to fight for something that I believed in. But I do not.

Last night a 31 year old man named Josefat escorted us from the bus dropoff to our hostel. For no reason at all he walked about 1 k out of his way to make sure that we were safe. He explained that life in Tanzania is very difficult. When asked if life is good he says "50-50." His tone tells you that he is being generous in that estimation. He has no job. His wife and kid have left him because he cannot support them. It reminds me of Donovan, the Tanzanian that we met in South Africa who left his home "in search of a better life," clinging to a porous suit jacket and a small bag.

With everything that I have I wanted to be able to offer Josefat some sort of advice. I wanted to give him something that would help him in some small way. I wish that I had some sort of answer about how he could take control of his life. But I have nothing to offer. No insight. No advice. Most of the walk home is done in silence. It is a very uncomfortable feeling. Josefat has an education, speaks english, but there are so few jobs and such a poor economy.

In between the great adventures, laughs, beers, pictures, and good times, there is this constant nagging feeling, this knot in my stomache that has not yet manifested itself yet as a real motivation or conviction. NGO's in Africa are often corrupt or strongly go against my values and beliefs, and in the end, usually don't do anything positive. Education programms teach a very "western" curriculum, missionaries spread the gospel, choking the people of their own heritage, and money pumped in only builds a dependancy on foreign aid.

An English man explains to me how the NGO he works for built an internet cafe to help "introduce" the Tanzanian people to the web but the price is so high that only the white NGO workers are able to use it. Thousands of dollars went into buying computers and building this cafe and it is used by foreigners only.

The best that I can say for myself is that this trip has made me grow up a lot. I have become very motivated to educate myself, to prepare myself for the situations that I will come across in the future. I feel very unprepared for this trip. I want to be able to offer Josefat some small token of advice. One thing that I have found to be true is that culture plays such a huge role in the way a society views the world. Out here, religion and witchcraft help shape some rather strange views on how the world works, a history of corruption and poverty have demolished the people's hope for any sort of progress. People live day to day because it is all that they know.

Example: Another NGO worker tells me the story of how the NGO gave a group of rural Tanzanians some seeds for planting hoping to help start them on a course of profitable farming but instead the Tanzanians just ate the seeds.

In America, consumerism drives the people. One of the best things about being out here, thousands of kilometers from the US is that I can clear my head of all of the distractions. The idiot box, the advertisments, the pop culture, the traffic, all of those things, those cultural demons that distort your mindframe and distract you from self reflextion. I have gained the focus to improve myself and the motivation to at least prepare myself for the future. So that when this knot in my stomache grows, I will be able to act. Not with the sloppyness of these well wishers and corrupt NGO's that offer good intentions at best, but with a real, useful, meaningful effort.

Hello Goodbye

There isn't enough time to tell you all about Malawi but just know that it was a beautiful, peaceful little paradise. It was a break from Africa in a way. I say that with an ironic tone because Malawi is one of the poorest countries in the world and my experience in the country, sadly, was a week of relaxing by an amazing lake with a bunch of Europeans. But I forgive myself because it was only 4 or 5 days and it was right in the middle of the trip, sort of a breather week.

Sidenote: People, especially Europeans, really dislike the US. I have run into this a lot on this trip and it is really a shame. People that know me know that I disagree with the US foriegn policy a lot but to travel and have to see how much people disagree and generally dislike our country is really tough.

However, we met a lot of interesting people, all Europeans that were staying at this little hostel. We talked a lot about African politics and it was very interesting. The hostel itself was strange in that all of the white tourists were staying at this one hostel, even though there were plenty others. One reason for this (and be careful not misinterpret this) is that it is run by a white man that has trained his staff to serve in a very western way. Because of this the hostel is a huge draw. It is a perfect place to come to a lake and relax. At most hostels that are run by locals the service sucks, they act like you are in the way and they treat you very coldly. While this hsotel had many locals running the show, they all were obviously very well trained in western hospitality, meaning they knew how to entertain and communicate in a way that made you feel comfortable. It is a bit of a shame that this hostel has such a monopoly on the tourism in this area. But it is something that I have been thinking about a lot on this trip. One white guy runs a bar/hostel in Nkhata bay and does 50 times the business that every other place does. On top of that, it was filled with white europeans. I might as well ahve been in Germany, or London, or any other place and not Africa.

Nathan and I spent an entire day traveling from Nkhata bay to Mbeya tanzania. We took 5 or 6 of the worst busses to get here. 18 people, 2 chickens and 5 bundles of sticks (are there not sticks where you are going?) crammend into a tiny minibus. Once we crossed the border the busses got worse. I climbed in thinking I was the last one on. The bus was overflowing. Then about 5 people ran and jumped on, holding on to the side while the sliding door stayed open and the bus cruised off at about 100 kph. People literally hung out the open door holding on to a wobbily rail while we cruised down the interstate, hitting giant potholes and dodging semi's. It is nuts riding the transport out here. I am not afraid of anything in these countries except for transport and sickness. I feel lucky that I have not had too horrible of experiences with either.

One thing I am not sure if I mentioned last but is something that will stick with me for the rest of my life. While we were on a long hike last week we came across a group of women and as soon as they saw us they all ran away in terror. It was so strange. They thought that us white guys were going to hurt them or take them away and so they literally ran away from us, carrying their things with them.

We are taking a train across some of the most beautiful landscape in Africa tomorrow, we are told that we will see wildlife out the window, and most importantly, the great rift valley which is home to some of the most important deposits of human evolution fossils!